Dry, But Not Deserted: Dubai’s Culinary Revolution
- Flo Graham-Dixon
- Jul 8
- 4 min read
Lately I’ve been spending more time in Dubai, and seen a lot of changes since I last worked on a sizeable project here, around ten years ago. Back then, the food scene felt like a shiny extension of the mall culture- glossy franchises, hotel restaurants, and the odd import from London or New York. This time around, something else is emerging.
Yes, the flashy beach clubs and DIFC are still buzzing with the Zumas, LPMs and Gaias of the world, turning thousand-pound tables like they’re flipping burgers. But scratch beneath the surface and something more grassroots, founder-led and genuinely innovative is taking shape. And much of it is dry.
Take Manao, tucked inside Wasl Vita in Jumeirah 1, you walk into a warm-lit haven, playing retro tunes to a crowd fashionably dressed diners. It’s bold, 11-course Thai tasting menu features Miang, sticky rice skewers and coconut-smoked short rib is accompanied by mocktails so layered and complex you genuinely don’t miss the alcohol- though at £90 a head for food alone, you’d better not. A dry tasting menu in Dubai might have been unthinkable a few years ago, but the city’s food scene has evolved. Diners are more curious, more open, more driven by authenticity and innovation. Manao was opened by the team behind Orfali Bros, the Syrian sibling-run restaurant that opened in 2021 that is also dry, in the same part of town and ranked in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Just across the small strip-mall is Itadaku, another dry concept, and just as special. Family-run and fiercely authentic, it feels like it’s been airlifted straight out of Tokyo. Dishes like house-made unagi kabayaki, fresh bamboo and kinome leaves are sourced directly from Japan. The husband-and-wife team run a meticulous ship and a charmingly un-sophisticated social media account. You’ll spend around the same as you would at Manao if you order the fatty tuna or wagyu steak - which you absolutely should! Then there is Kokoro, a trendy open-kitchen handroll bar in Alserkal Avenue, a warehouse district that’s evolved into the City’s creative and cultural hub. Again, Kokoro drives a similar spend without a drop of alcohol.
Places like these are thriving because they sit outside the typical hotel or mall formula. Lower rents, no need for a liquor license, and more architectural freedom combine to create a rare pocket where creativity can thrive. It’s the closest Dubai may ever get to having a Hackney - somewhere chefs with a dream can actually come and experiment. They offer identity, authenticity- something distinct in a city still dominated by catch-all, 100-page multi-cuisine menus.
One of the early pioneers in this movement, and still going strong is 3 Fils. When it opened back in 2016 on a then-quiet stretch of Jumeirah harbour, it felt like a revelation. Today, that area is buzzing, but 3 Fils still holds up - still dry, still chef-led, still brilliant. What’s striking is who’s behind these places. Not global franchises. Not hotel groups. Mostly first- and second-generation immigrants who’ve done well enough to raise funds and self-start. Entrepreneurs and chefs who are carving their own lane and have meaningful equity in the businesses they have created.
The café scene mirrors this shift. Head to Umm Suqeim, Jumeirah or Al Quoz and you’ll find converted villas and warehouses housing some of the city’s best coffee shops- Bkry, Orto, Earth Roastery, RX Coffee Apothecary, Alchemy, Koncrete, Haas, Backyard. Big, gallery-like spaces with slick design and a broad crowd of locals and expats alike. For a city where a significant part of the population doesn’t drink, these cafés act as social hubs much in the same way as the local pub in the UK.
But beyond these pockets, gaps remain. For example, where are the quality neighbourhood cafés? While house-hunting, we visited several of Dubai’s suburban enclaves - immaculate, bougainvillaea-laced developments that could pass for Desperate Housewives sets. All very convenient, but every “community hub” comprises of a mini-mall filled with the usual suspects: Starbucks, Costa, Pizza Hut, McDonald's, KFC. With so many people now working from home, and traffic what it is, you’d expect more diversity and character. One outlier is Sustainable City, a pedestrianised, solar-powered community complete with urban farm pods. This development has chosen a different strategy of targeting independent operators and placing them around an open square of multi-functional community space, activated by all manner of activities - weekend markets, roller skating, stage-events. It’s a sign of what’s possible when developers think differently.
The other gap? Premium casual. The Dubai market remains heavily polarised- dominated by fast food, chain casual dining, and luxury- but that sweet spot in between, where British operators particularly excel, is still under-served. And yet, the demand is obvious. A growing middle class is feeling the pinch of steep rent hikes, and a well-priced, high-quality concept would hit the mark. Brands like Berenjak, Khadak (from a former Dishoom chef), and Ergon Deli from Athens are starting to appear, along with homegrown players like the Independent Group (Somewhere, Parkers, Shalwa) and EatX (Tom & Serg, Byron Bathers). But collectively, they still represent a small share of the market.
Dubai’s culinary scene is changing, and many of the most exciting moves are happening in dry spaces. It may be an oversaturated market, but UK operators have long learnt how to navigate that. There are smart plays to be made here for those willing to look beyond the obvious.
